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Field study of nearshore sediment transport processes

The ECORS project aims at improving our understanding of sandy beach evolution presenting complex bathymetries in a macro-tidal nearshore environment affected by waves, wave breaking and nearshore currents. The project has been funded by the French Naval Hydrographic and Oceanographic Office (SHOM) under the lead of University of Bordeaux (EPOC, N. Sénéchal). The overall objective is to qualify the prediction ability of nearshore wave / current and morphodynamic models. For this purpose, a major field campaign has been conducted between February and April 2008 at the Truc-Vert beach on the French atlantic coast. It involved 20 academic and private company partners from 6 different countries (Australia, France, New Zealand, The Netherlands, UK, USA). Our team is concerned with the identification and characterization of intra-wave scale processes responsible for sand entrainment and bedshape variations based on acoustic and optic measurements of pressure, velocity, sediment concentration and bed level. Particular interest is given to wave breaking and bed friction induced turbulence associated with sand entrainment, deposition, transport, as well as bedshape changes leading to ripple vortex entrainment of the sand. These aspects are studied across the macrotidal beach region in the shoaling and surf ones for many tidal cycles with different wave climate conditions.

Berni, C., Mignot, E., Michallet, H., Dalla-Costa, C., Grasso, F. & Lagauzère, M. (2009). Diversity of bed evolution at wave and tidal scales on Truc-Vert beach. J. of Coast. Res., SI 56, 1726 – 1730.

Emmanuel, I., J.P. Parisot, H. Michallet, E. Barthélemy & N. Sénéchal (2009). Sediment transport particular events and beach profile response, J. of Coast. Res., SI 56, 1766-1770.

Mignot, E., Hurther, D., Chassagneux, F-X. & Barnoud, J-M, (2009). A field study of the ripple vortex shedding process in the shoaling zone of a macro-tidal sandy beach. J. Coastal Res., SI 56.