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Accueil > Équipes > Équipe MEIGE > Thèmes de recherche > Processus de couche limite & turbulence géophysique > Interaction couche limite - transport de sédiment

Sediment transport under coastal waves

(D. Hurther, J. Chauchat)

This research activity is devoted to the improvement of sand transport modelling across the coastal nearshore region affected by the turbulent wave breaking process and its dynamical interaction with bed morphology. Several intensive measurement campaigns have been conducted for this purpose in 2014, 2016 and 2018 under full-scale surface wave conditions in the large-scale wave flumes of U. Polytechnic of Catalunya (Spain, 100m long) and of U. Hannover (Germany, 300m long). The study addresses hydrodynamic flow processes including the turbulent Wave Boundary Layer properties (van der Zanden et al. 2016, 2018, van der A et al. 2017) and their effect on suspended load and bedload sand transport as a sheet flows (van der Zanden et al. 2017a, 2017b, Fromant et al. 2019) across the shoaling, outer and inner surf zones.

Wave Breaking hydrodynamics & sand transport processes in the coastal wave breaking region : 100m-long wave flume experiment at UPC-CIEM (2016, 2018). Source : van der Zanden et al. (2016)

Funding :
Hydralab+ COMPLEX (H2020 EC Funding) : D. Hurther-Principal Investigator
MEPELS (DGA) : J. Chauchat-Principal Investigator
SINBAD (STW-EPSRC dutch-british funding agency) : D. Hurther-Intern. Expert
STENCIL (DFG german funding agency) : D. Hurther-Participant

PhD Student and Post-doc
A. Mathieu (PhD, DGA/SHOM MEPELS 2018-)
G. Fromant (Hydralab Post-doc, 2016-2017)
J. van der Zanden (SINBAD Post-doc at U. of Aberdeen, 2017)-collab. with D. van der A & T. O’Donoghue

Fromant, G., Hurther, D., Van Der Zanden, J., Van Der A, D. A., Caceres, I., O’Donoghue, T., & Ribberink, J.S. (2019). Wave Boundary Layer Hydrodynamics and Sheet Flow Properties under Large-Scale Plunging-Type Breaking Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research : Oceans. <10.1029/2018JC014406> .
Van der Zanden, J., van der A, D. A., Caceres, I., Hurther, D., McLelland, S. J., Ribberink, J. S., & O’Donoghue, T. (2018). Near-bed turbulent kinetic energy budget under a large-scale plunging breaking wave over a fixed bar. Journal of Geophysical Research : Oceans, 123. 〈10.1002/ 2017JC013411〉
Van der Zanden J., Van Der A D., Hurther D., Cáceres I. and O’Donoghue T.. (2017a) Bedload and suspended load contributions to breaker bar morphodynamics. Coastal Engineering, Elsevier, 129, pp.74 - 92. doi : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.09.005.
van der A, D., van der Zanden, J., O’Donoghue, T., Hurther, D., Caceres, I, McLelland, S., J. and Ribberink, J. S., (2017), Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 122, doi : 10.1002/2016JC012072.
van der Zanden, J., van der A, D. A., Hurther, D., Caceres, I, O’Donoghue, T. and Ribberink, J. S., (2017b), Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar, Coastal Engineering, 125, 51–69, doi : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.03.007.
van der Zanden, J., van der A, D. A., Hurther, D., Caceres, I, O’Donoghue, T. and Ribberink, J. S., (2016), Near-bed hydrodynamics and turbulence below a large-scale plunging breaking wave over a mobile barred bed profile, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 121, 6482–6506, doi:10.1002/2016JC011909.